Who’s Who in Sonoma: Pastry Master Andrea Koweek

Andrea Koweek has a well-refined sweet tooth and is sharing it with Sonoma. She and her partner, Moaya Scheiman, recently opened Crisp Bakeshop  in the space formerly occupied by Artisan Bakers on West Napa. Koweek rises when the rest of Sonoma is sleeping to create her passion-inspired delicacies. 

After growing up in New York, Koweek moved to San Francisco in 1996, where she attended the California Culinary Academy’s baking and pastry program.

She came to Sonoma to take on a management position for Suzanne Brangham at , when, according to Koweek, “consumer cooking schools were at the height of their popularity.”

Sonoma Patch: What’s the first pastry you recall eating?

Andrea: Chocolate chip cookies! They’re my inspiration for everything. I was lucky enough to grow up in a house that centered around the kitchen and I credit my mother for my love of baking. I even use her banana bread recipe at Crisp. 

SP: How did Crisp come about?

Andrea: I was the director of catering for for more than four years. A lot of my clients were using bakeries in other towns for cakes and desserts. A small bakery seemed like something Sonoma needed.

SP: How much revamping did you do to the space?

Andrea: Modernizing and creating a display kitchen were key elements for us. Not only does the space look entirely different, we made it more energy efficient and “greener” on a lot of levels. 

SP: Is this your first business venture?

Andrea: I’ve never done anything on this level. Moaya has had his own businesses and he’s a risk taker. I’m more cautious, so we balance each other out. I don’t think I would have had the courage to do this without him.

SP: What’s the most challenging thing when it comes to pastries?

Andrea: It’s hard to adjust a recipe once you’ve started. A different flour or new oven can really change the way your recipes work. When cooking, you can make small adjustments along the way for flavor or texture, but you have to have a more definite plan when you’re baking. 

SP: The easiest thing?

Andrea: Probably the same thing. Once you have your recipes set and are using the same ingredients and equipment day after day you don’t have to make adjustments, though there may be slight variability in baking times due to humidity or the way your oven is running.

SP: Do you create your own recipes or adapt your style to existing recipes?

Andrea: A little of both. We get inspiration from things we eat, photos we see, and articles we read. I’m lucky to have someone in my life as passionate about food as I am. We eat out, cook at home, and are constantly talking about food.

SP: My kind of household. You’ve worked with some iconic chefs, namely and Thomas Keller.

Andrea: My time at the girl & the fig was by far the most influential for me. Both Sondra and her partner John mentored me extensively.

SP: And Thomas Keller? 

Andrea: He had an enormous impact on me – it was about striving to be the best you can be.

SP: How has the response been to Crisp?

Andrea: Amazing. 

SP: What do you do when you’re not baking?

Andrea:  Hmmm. . ..  There hasn’t been too much else besides Crisp lately, but for now that’s ok.

SP: Nice world to be immersed in.

Crisp Bakeshop is located at 750 West Napa St, open 7 a.m. - 3 p.m. daily. The retail store features fresh baked morning pastries, Equator Coffees and Teas, a lunch sandwich menu, and small batch production cakes, cookies, savories and confections. Phone (707) 933-9999 or see their page on Facebook.